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Remove trailing whitespace from all .py and .md files (#351)
* Remove trailing whitespace from all .py and .md files
* Add automatic trailing whitespace check to CI
* Remove a hidden file that shouldn't be there
* Revert "Add automatic trailing whitespace check to CI"
This reverts commit d14a7b6.
* Use a fork of the whitespace-detector that supports filtering by file extension
* Fix regex syntax (i hope)
* Remove trailing whitespace from files outside the `software` directory
* Remove the whitespace linting
@@ -64,8 +64,8 @@ The EuroPi firmware API documentation can be found at https://allen-synthesis.gi
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If you would like to extend any of the features of the EuroPi software, you can view the firmware source code at [europi.py](software/firmware/europi.py).
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### Issues
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If you find any bugs, either in the software, the hardware, or the documentation, please create an Issue by clicking the 'Issue' tab along the top.
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Please feel free to create any issue you see fit, I'll either attempt to fix it or explain it.
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If you find any bugs, either in the software, the hardware, or the documentation, please create an Issue by clicking the 'Issue' tab along the top.
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Please feel free to create any issue you see fit, I'll either attempt to fix it or explain it.
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There are Issue templates available, so please choose whichever is most relevant, depending on if your Issue is a hardware or software bug, if it's a documentation error or suggestion, if it's a question about the project as a whole, or a suggestion about the project as a whole.
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@@ -79,9 +79,9 @@ This module, and any documentation included in this repository, is entirely "fre
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Anyone is welcome to design their own versions of the idea, or modify my designs.
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The only thing I would ask is that you refrain from using the brand name 'Allen Synthesis' on your DIY builds if they have modified my files in any way, just to prevent any confusion if they end up being re-sold or distributed. This is in line with section 8.2 of the CERN license. You may use the brand name if you have simply copied the files from this repository to replicate without modification.
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If you have a bug fix or improvement that you think is worth sharing, then feel free to send over any pictures or documentation and it can be merged with the main project!
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### Disclaimer
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Recreate any of the files found in this repository at your own risk; I will attempt to solve any issues that you might have with my designs, but I can't guarantee that there are not minor bugs in any of the documents, both hardware and software.
Copy file name to clipboardexpand all lines: contributing.md
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# What to expect during the PR process
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A PR will typically progress through the following steps:
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1. PR opened by author
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2. Reviewers add comments in the form of questions, discussion points, suggestions, and required changes.
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3. PR participants discuss the comments
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## Comment labels
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These labels prefix each of the reviewer's comments in order to indicate their intention.
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These labels prefix each of the reviewer's comments in order to indicate their intention.
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| Label ||
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| ----- | - |
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### Markdown must render properly on github
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The markdown must use [github's markdown style](https://docs.github.com/en/get-started/writing-on-github) and render properly when viewing the project on [github.com/Allen-Synthesis](https://github.com/Allen-Synthesis)
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### Api docs must build successfully
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The [API doc site](https://allen-synthesis.github.io/EuroPi/) must build successfully. See the [docs readme](/docs/README.md) for more details.
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### File Naming
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Please use all lowercase and separate words with underscores for your program names. If additional resources are needed, such as image files, a directory with the same name and suffixed with `docs` can be included. e.g. the files associated with a program for a Sample and Hold function would look as follows:
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Please use all lowercase and separate words with underscores for your program names. If additional resources are needed, such as image files, a directory with the same name and suffixed with `docs` can be included. e.g. the files associated with a program for a Sample and Hold function would look as follows:
Copy file name to clipboardexpand all lines: frequently_asked_questions.md
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# FAQ
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### Frequently asked questions about the EuroPi project. If you can't find the answer to your question here, head over to [The Discord](https://discord.gg/JaQwtCnBV5) and ask it in the support channel!
Copy file name to clipboardexpand all lines: git_help.md
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# Making a Pull Request to submit changes or new scripts to the official repository
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# Making a Pull Request to submit changes or new scripts to the official repository
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|||
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| --- | --- |
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||
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| Once the Pull Request is merged, tell everyone about your cool new script or change in the Discord server!|[Join the Allen Synthesis Discord](https://discord.gg/JaQwtCnBV5)|
Copy file name to clipboardexpand all lines: hardware/EuroPi/bill_of_materials.md
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# Bill of Materials
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In addition to the Front Panel, Jack PCB, and Pico PCB (bought from Allen Synthesis or a third-party supplier), you will need the following components to complete your build.
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You will also need one 3.5mm cable (normal Eurorack patch cable) to perform the calibration process.
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Please note that a few of these are multi-packs of components, and there may well be cheaper alternatives if you are doing a single build, so as long as the specification is the same you can get any of these components from any supplier most accessible to you.
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You will also need one 3.5mm cable (normal Eurorack patch cable) to perform the calibration process.
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You can either add each of these components to your basket using whichever suppliers you prefer, or alternatively use the complete [Mouser Shopping Basket](https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=b8e6a0d666) and then buy the few components that Mouser doesn't stock (Knobs, OLED, and Eurorack Power Cable) elsewhere.
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Please note that a few of these are multi-packs of components, and there may well be cheaper alternatives if you are doing a single build, so as long as the specification is the same you can get any of these components from any supplier most accessible to you.
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You can either add each of these components to your basket using whichever suppliers you prefer, or alternatively use the complete [Mouser Shopping Basket](https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=b8e6a0d666) and then buy the few components that Mouser doesn't stock (Knobs, OLED, and Eurorack Power Cable) elsewhere.
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If buying in bulk there are likely other suppliers that are cheaper - this BOM is compiled for DIY builders aiming to build 1-5 EuroPis at once.
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| | 1 | | Raspberry Pi Pico | [The Pi Hut](https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-pico)<br>[CPC](https://cpc.farnell.com/raspberry-pi/raspberry-pi-pico/raspberry-pi-pico-rp2040-mcu-board/dp/SC17106)<br>[Mouser](https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Raspberry-Pi/SC0915?qs=T%252BzbugeAwjgnLi4azxXVFA%3D%3D)<br>**Note: Any official version of the Raspberry Pi Pico will work (W, H, or WH). Third party RP2040 boards may work, but there is no guarantee - always double check the pinout**
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#### Note about OLED
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The OLED has two suppliers listed, each with different pin configurations. The module supports either of these two configurations (the most common), but no others, so make sure that the one you buy, wherever you source it, has one of these two configurations.
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The OLED has two suppliers listed, each with different pin configurations. The module supports either of these two configurations (the most common), but no others, so make sure that the one you buy, wherever you source it, has one of these two configurations.
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It also *must* be 36mm or less. There are some displays which are 38mm wide, which will not only not fit within the width of the module, but will also leave the display off-centre in relation to the panel cutout. You can check the datasheet of any display before you buy to determine the width, but both of the displays listed in the BOM above are the correct 36mm.
Copy file name to clipboardexpand all lines: hardware/EuroPi/build_guide.md
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# Build Guide
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#### Introduction
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This document will go through the assembly of the EuroPi module.
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If you have bought only a Panel + PCB kit, you will need to also buy all of the components found in the [bill of materials](/hardware/EuroPi/bill_of_materials.md).
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This build is entirely through-hole (not even any pre-soldered SMD components!) so don't worry if you're fairly new to DIY, these instructions should be all you need to make your module.
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This guide should explain every step in enough detail, but there are some things left out for simplicity's sake, such as the fact that after each step any long legs will need to be snipped using your wire snips or scissors. This is only necessary for components with long legs, so resistors, capacitors, and LEDs. You don't need to snip anything off any of the headers, the 7805, the jacks, potentiometers, or IC sockets.
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#### Skiff Friendly Build
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This document will go through the assembly of the EuroPi module.
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If you have bought only a Panel + PCB kit, you will need to also buy all of the components found in the [bill of materials](/hardware/EuroPi/bill_of_materials.md).
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This build is entirely through-hole (not even any pre-soldered SMD components!) so don't worry if you're fairly new to DIY, these instructions should be all you need to make your module.
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This guide should explain every step in enough detail, but there are some things left out for simplicity's sake, such as the fact that after each step any long legs will need to be snipped using your wire snips or scissors. This is only necessary for components with long legs, so resistors, capacitors, and LEDs. You don't need to snip anything off any of the headers, the 7805, the jacks, potentiometers, or IC sockets.
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#### Skiff Friendly Build
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There are two options for some of the build, one of which makes the module more skiff friendly (37mm deep as opposed to 45mm). If you wish to make the thinner version, simply click the links that say [Skiff Friendly Option](), and follow the instructions to guide you back into the normal build at the right points. Simply ignore these links if you don't mind the module being slightly deeper.
The 'Jack PCB' is the remaining board, with the outlines for the front panel components.
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The 'Jack PCB' is the remaining board, with the outlines for the front panel components.
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The 'front' of the Jack PCB is the side with the OLED, jack, and button outlines, and the 'back' is the side with the OLED configuration diagram.
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|Front|Back|
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---
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#### OLED Configuration
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There are two pin configurations that the OLED used in this build commonly comes in, which are labelled on the board 'TPH' (The Pi Hut), and 'CPC' (CPC, AliExpress, most other suppliers).
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The Pi Hut display is preferable as it does not have pre-soldered headers, so is easier to mount on the board. However the CPC display is still entirely usable.
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This configuration setup allows you to tell the module which display you are using, as their pins are ordered differently:
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TPH: VCC, GND, SDA, SCL
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There are two pin configurations that the OLED used in this build commonly comes in, which are labelled on the board 'TPH' (The Pi Hut), and 'CPC' (CPC, AliExpress, most other suppliers).
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The Pi Hut display is preferable as it does not have pre-soldered headers, so is easier to mount on the board. However the CPC display is still entirely usable.
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This configuration setup allows you to tell the module which display you are using, as their pins are ordered differently:
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TPH: VCC, GND, SDA, SCL
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CPC: SDA, SCL, VCC, GND
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Don't ask my why there is still not a standard for I²C pin layout in the year 2021, but here we are, and here is how to tell the module which layout you are using:
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#### Snip some resistor legs and bend them over the end of something small and round, such as needle-nose pliers
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#### Solder the OLED Display to the front
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This is quite an awkward operation as the distance the headers need to occupy is not standard to the lengths that 2.54mm headers come in. If you are using a CPC display, your headers are probably pre-soldered, in which case you need to prop the display up somehow while you solder one pin, then go on to solder the rest once you're sure it's straight.
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If your display is CPC, the pins will be flush with the PCB if it's at the correct height, which is difficult but possible to solder.
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If your display is CPC, the pins will be flush with the PCB if it's at the correct height, which is difficult but possible to solder.
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If your display is TPH, you can either solder pins and do it the same way as the CPC method, or use extra-long pin headers instead which will make the soldering process easier, as they will protrude far enough to get a better solder joint.
Make sure the cable is connected so that the 'key' on the cable slots into the notch on the header, and the red stripe is on the bottom side of the module.
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Turn on your power supply and check for any smoke or discolouration of the PCB around the power connector, and immediately unplug if either occur.
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Turn on your power supply and check for any smoke or discolouration of the PCB around the power connector, and immediately unplug if either occur.
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If all is groovy, the congratulations, you've finished building your EuroPi!
Copy file name to clipboardexpand all lines: hardware/EuroPi/pcb/README.md
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The PCB files are in two file types:
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- .pcb files, which can be opened in [DesignSpark](https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/pcb-software) free PCB software
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- .rar files, which are zipped folders containing the Gerber format PCBs. Each entire .rar folder can be dragged and dropped to a PCB manufacturer such as [JLC PCB](https://jlcpcb.com/) (my personal choice)
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There are two different options for the panel PCB:
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- Panel, which is made for JLC aluminium production
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- Black Panel, which is made for FR4 production by any manufacturer
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