Soldering of External Battery #3082
Replies: 6 comments
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Posted at 2019-09-21 by Robin Fri 2019.09.20 I opened up the info page from: below heading 'Information' opened up the schematic:
The correlation seems to be p.14 seems to confirm also: The board layout didn't provide any important additional info:
It seems the two pad GND through hole near D11 and the 3V power near D7 are the best bet.
Could there be an unintentional bridged solder connection? Do you have an ohm meter to check for shorts- opens? Any chance an image of the botched solder area could be uploaded for us to determine if traces were in fact damaged? Other than an extremely long heat contact time way over two seconds with a high wattage iron (above 22W), might damage the copper trace, or repeated attempts without a proper solder removal means (vacuum, solder wick). Otherwise, within those estimated ranges should be okay. A keen eye here might confirm or provide a glimmer of hope . . . . |
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Posted at 2019-09-21 by user103487 I had to remove the header. |
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Posted at 2019-09-21 by user103487 Thanks Robin, I had the same info, I was just looking for more. The copper trace was about 3mm short of the pad when I took the header off, I thought I might catch it with solder but I underestimated my previous ineptitude... and didn't check. |
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Posted at 2019-09-21 by Robin Sat 2019.09.21
If it wasn't understood from the (lower left) schematic, remember the need for a diode drop using LiPo. See p.17 Sec. 6 of datasheet |
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Posted at 2019-09-23 by @gfwilliams D23/24 are just IO pins... Luckily the big metal battery clip is all 3v, so if you need to attach a wire because something got broken you could solder on to one of the two 'lugs' where it attaches. With LiPo, as @robin notes you'll need a diode to drop the voltage (since when fully charged, LiPos produce too much voltage). There's no place in particular that was made for adding one because of that. However if you wanted to use an LR2032 rechargeable coin cell battery then there is space to add a diode on the PCB. If you look at http://www.espruino.com/Puck.js#pinout you can see just above pin One other thing is if you want to mess with Espruino without coin cells there's always http://www.espruino.com/Pixl.js that you can run off micro USB, or http://www.espruino.com/MDBT42Q which does have space to solder a LiPo connector as it's got a voltage regulator on it. |
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Posted at 2019-09-24 by user103487 Thanks Everyone! I'll look in to my options from there. |
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Posted at 2019-09-21 by user103487
Hi Guys,
I have pulled one of my puck.js out of the draw again recently and have tried to drive it with a 3.3v power source for prototyping. Not sure what I am going to do with it but I would prefer not to burn through my batteries while prototyping so I have soldered on some headers and tried driving it through GND and 3v pins but this board has had some abuse and I didn't know how to solder when I orginally got it and it seems I damaged the trace...
Anyway, my question is can I use D24 and D23 for power connection?
I recall that they were supposed to be for external battery connection but can't find any info about it.
e.g. which one is GND?
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